Why Your Dress Shirt Always Feels Wrong (And How Custom Fixes It)
If you’ve ever tried on ten dress shirts and still walked away unsatisfied, you’re not alone. In our showroom, this is one of the most common frustrations we hear:
“I can’t find a shirt that fits.”
The reason is simple: most dress shirts are made to fit a generalized template—not a real person. Even high-end off-the-rack shirts are built around standard proportions. They may fit your neck but not your shoulders, your chest but not your sleeves, or your torso but not your posture.
A great dress shirt should feel clean through the collar, smooth across the chest, and comfortable in motion. When a shirt is wrong, you feel it all day—at the neck, the cuffs, the waist, and the shoulders.
Below are the most common shirt fit issues we see, why they happen, and what a custom shirt changes.
1) The Collar Gap Problem
What it looks like
- You button the collar and there’s a visible gap behind the neck
- The collar lifts or “floats,” especially when you move
- You feel like you’re constantly adjusting it
Why it happens
Most shirts are built with a standard collar shape and height. But men’s neck posture varies significantly—some stand upright, some lean forward slightly, and some have shoulder slope that pulls the collar out of position.
How a custom shirt fixes it
A proper custom shirt accounts for more than neck size. It considers:
- neck posture
- collar height preference
- collar spread (more open vs more conservative)
- whether you wear a tie often
When that geometry is correct, the collar sits close and clean without tension.
2) Tight Sleeves or “Arm Bind”
What it looks like
- Tightness when reaching forward
- pulling across the biceps or forearm
- cuffs that ride up
- discomfort when driving or typing
Why it happens
Off-the-rack shirts assume a standard arm circumference and sleeve pitch. Men who lift weights, have longer arms, or simply carry weight differently often feel restriction immediately.
How a custom shirt fixes it
Our team adjusts:
- sleeve width
- sleeve pitch (how the sleeve hangs relative to posture)
- cuff size (especially important if you wear a watch)
- armhole placement for better mobility
A well-cut sleeve allows motion without looking oversized.
3) Billowing Fabric Around the Waist
What it looks like
- excess fabric puffing under a jacket
- the shirt looks sloppy when untucked
- constant re-tucking throughout the day
Why it happens
Most dress shirts are sized primarily by neck and sleeve length. That means a man with a lean waist may end up with excess fabric through the midsection, while a broader man may size up for the chest and end up with a shirt that’s too loose everywhere else.
How a custom shirt fixes it
A custom pattern shapes the torso correctly:
- chest and waist are drafted separately
- the shirt can be tapered cleanly
- shirt length can be adjusted for your build
- the hem can be designed to stay tucked
A refined shirt should be clean in front and never balloon at the sides.
4) Shoulder Pulling and Back Wrinkles
What it looks like
- diagonal wrinkles from the shoulder blade
- tightness across the upper back
- armholes that restrict movement
Why it happens
The shoulder width and yoke shape matter more than most men realize. Standard sizes don’t accommodate athletic backs, broad shoulders with narrow waists, or posture differences.
How a custom shirt fixes it
We refine:
- shoulder width
- yoke shape
- upper back allowance
- armhole height and position
This is why a properly made shirt feels comfortable and looks sharper under a jacket.
5) Cuffs That Don’t Sit Correctly
What it looks like
- cuffs too tight around the wrist
- cuffs too wide and sloppy
- cuff length too long or too short
Why it happens
Most shirts assume a standard wrist size and sleeve length. Small differences become obvious quickly—especially when you’re wearing a jacket and the cuff is either hidden or overstated.
How a custom shirt fixes it
Custom shirts allow:
- cuff sizing to your wrist (and watch)
- sleeve length refined to show the right amount of cuff
- cuff style selection (barrel vs French cuff, rounded vs angled)
These details are subtle, but they shape the entire impression.
The Real Value: A Shirt That Works With You
In our experience, most men don’t realize how much time they’ve spent compromising on shirts—adjusting collars, re-tucking, choosing between comfort and appearance.
Once you wear a shirt built for your proportions, everything becomes easier:
- it stays clean under a suit jacket
- it moves with you
- it looks refined from morning to evening
- it eliminates the trial-and-error of shopping
A great shirt is not simply more comfortable—it’s more composed. And that composure shows.
Call to Action
If you’re tired of shirts that feel “almost right,” we invite you to schedule a consultation at Samuel Baron Clothiers. Our team will guide you through collar options, cuff styles, fabric selection, and fit details so your shirts feel comfortable and look correct in every setting.
